One of the many creative forces on the Chicago restaurant scene is a restaurant group called One Off Hospitality. The group is headed up by Chef Paul Kahan (pronounced “con”), Donnie Madia, an expert in front-of-house operations, sommelier Eduard Seitan and mixologist Terry Alexander. It started back in 1997 when Kahan met Madia and they agreed to open a restaurant together. A year later, Blackbird was born. As the years have gone by, they teamed up with Seitan and Alexander and have opened a number of new places with widely different formats. There are currently eight restaurants in their portfolio, ranging from fine dining at Nico Osteria and Blackbird, to the boisterous, cash only taqueria and bar called Big Star. While format, cost and style vary dramatically, good food and good drink are the common denominator.
Chef Kahan is the Executive Chef for all eight One Off Hospitality restaurants, but the Chef de Cuisine at each site clearly plays a major role in developing the unique menu that each location. Chef David Posey has filled that role for seven years at Blackbird, but he recently announced that he would be leaving to start his own as yet unnamed and unknown new restaurant.
Chef Posey’s replacement will be Chef Perry Hendrix, who is currently Chef de Cuisine at Avec, which is next door to Blackbird and another restaurant in the One Off Hospitality group. Given the quality and creativity of things at Avec, Blackbird’s menu should continue to be stellar. Still, it is sad to see Chef Posey leave. I have eaten at Blackbird several times and always been impressed by the food. Apparently others are, too, given the Michelin stars and other high ratings the restaurant has received, not to mention the fact that Chef Posey has been a James Beard Rising Star chef finalist two years in a row.
Chef Posey is leaving with a classy farewell. During his last 2 weeks before leaving on August 1, the tasting menu will be “The Best of David Posey,” featuring eight courses that represent his accomplishments during his seven years at Blackbird, plus a couple of dessert courses.
If you enjoy a good cocktail, starting with one from a list created and approved by Terry Alexander is a good move. Valeria started with a Crown Jewel Negroni made with Beefeater 24 Gin, L’Afrique Vermouth, Campari and a house made Juniper-Orange Tincture.
A traditional Negroni is made with 1 part gin, 1 part Campari and 1 part sweet vermouth, served on the rocks with an orange slice as a garnish. As with any cocktail, you can start many a bar fight over how this classic recipe should be changed, which gin or vermouth to use and so on. Blackbird’s take, at least on this night, upgraded the mix with a premium gin and vermouth and a house made tincture (bitters). Beefeater 24 is Beefeater’s premium gin, primarily distinguished by the use of Japanese Sencha and Chinese Green Tea in the mix of botanicals that flavor it. Hammer and Tong’s L’Afrique is an American vermouth made using a blend of herbs and spices from west and north Africa. Rather darker and more strongly flavored than, say, Martini and Rossi Sweet Vermouth, it definitely adds to the character of the drink.
One of the characteristics of the modern mixology movement is that the standard, off-the-shelf bitters, though still very important, are being supplemented with a wide variety of house made bitters and tinctures. These are important additions to the flavor profile of designer cocktails, and I especially caught the juniper note in this one.
I’m a fan of Bourbon-based cocktails, so I went with the deceptively named Presbyterian Cocktail (Medley Brothers Bourbon, Okinawan Black Sugar, Freshly Squeezed Ginger). While the name might suggest an alcohol-free “mocktail,” this was not. Medley Brothers Bourbon is bottled at 102 proof (versus around 40 – 46 for most Bourbons) so it is meant to be mixed. We were eating on a hot July day, so the cold Bourbon-ginger mix was delightful.
After a little time to enjoy the cocktails, the first course appeared: Laughing Bird Shrimp with Sweet Corn Mousse, Peaches & Black Ramps.
When I was growing up in Michigan, fresh shrimp was a rare, expensive treat. Today, shrimp is everywhere, but the quality is uncertain. Much of it is farmed under appalling conditions in southeast Asia and sold frozen in the US. Fortunately, wild-caught shrimp from the Gulf of Mexico is also pretty readily available, if more expensive. That is what I look for, with rare exceptions.
But farm-raised seafood does not have to be inferior. A case in point is Laughing Bird shrimp. It is farmed in inland ponds in Belize. Their water is constantly filtered and they are fed a carefully balanced vegetarian diet. They are sold fresh and not chemically treated as the bulk of mass market shrimp is. The result is a sweet, high-quality product than is flown fresh to major markets where chefs put it to good use.
Enter Chef Posey. This dish was a beautiful balance of summer favorites (sweet corn and peaches) with the shrimp flavor (shrimp loves fruit, for some reason) and the funky garlicky-oniony goodness of the ramp.
Next up, Confit Sepia with Green Tomato, Blueberries, Cynar & Chamomile Almonds.
As a photographer, the word “Sepia” congers up an image of a brown-tinted photograph. As a foodie, it brings to mind another great Chicago restaurant, Sepia, which would be rather hard to confit (cook slowly in fat). So, the name here must be a reference to a cuttlefish (Latin name: sepia). Sure enough, the dish consisted of tender strips of squid, floating in a delicate broth that tasted of squid and tomatoes and Cynar, which, like Campari, is an Italian bitter apéritif. It is, however, relatively new, having been developed in the 1950s (many liqueur recipes go back centuries). It is distinguished by a picture of an artichoke on the label, indicating that artichokes are one of many botanicals used in the blend. (It does not taste like artichokes, however.) A few sliced blueberries, a couple pieces of green tomato, and some almond slivers that I believe had been smoked or soaked in chamomile tea competed the dish.
The wine pair for this dish was N.V. Roederer Estate Brut Sparkling Wine from the Anderson Valley in Sonoma County, CA. It’s a favorite of mine among California bubblies. The influence of the French owners is evident in the more elegant style, but California sparkling wine is distinctive and never really duplicates true French Champagne – which is a good thing. They are delicious in their own right and add a different flavor and profile option.
The third course was Chilled Turnip Cream with Smoked Hamachi, Chicken Consommé, Raspberry & Spruce.
Turnips are a surprisingly underutilized vegetable as they are readily available, inexpensive and, when prepared well, delicious. Turned into a tasty cream soup, accented with a bit of smoked Hamachi, a fresh raspberry and a splash of flavorful chicken consommé, and again you have a delightful summer dish. Great flavors and textures.
The wine for this course was the 2011 Domaine Paul Blanck Riesling from Alsace, France. You may know that I am a huge fan of Riesling from Germany and, especially Alsace, where the wines are generally made drier and fuller bodied. Known for releasing their wines later than most producers, they are reliably good and this wine was classic Alsatian Riesling with peachy notes on the nose and flavor, good acidity and a long finish.
The fourth course was Corned Beef Tongue with Wheat Berries, Avocado, Leeks, and Beer Vinegar.
Beef tongue is not the first thing most Americans ask for in a restaurant, but it really is good if you are willing to take the time to make it well. It is high in fat and cooks up very tender. Corning a beef tongue is pretty much the same as corning a beef brisket. The tongue is marinated in a brine that is typically flavored with some combination of black peppercorns, mustard seeds, coriander seeds, bay leaves, allspice, cloves, cinnamon and ginger. The tongue must soak in the marinade for a week or more, then extracted, boiled in clean water, skinned and sliced. You can find more details here.
Whatever the exact recipe and method used by Chef Posey, the beautiful, flavorful slice of tongue just melted in my mouth. Add some leeks (sautéed, I think), some puréed avocado and a splash of beer vinegar for acidity and you have a colorful and tasty dish.
The wine chosen for this course was the 2013 Beatrice & Pascal Lambert Cuvée Mathilde Rosé from Chinon, France. A rosé from Chinon will almost always be made from Cabernet Franc, which is relegated to a supporting role as a blending grape in most places, but not here. This one is 100% Cabernet Franc and it is exactly what you want a good rosé to be – fresh, dry, fruity and with enough acidity to clear the palate. Good juice.
Course #5 was Roasted Lobster with Fried Polenta, Coffee-braised Lobster Mushrooms & Cucumber.
Lobster is, arguably, the ultimate luxury crustacean, but, like shrimp and crab, it is easy to mess up when you are cooking it. While it is traditional to boil or steam these hard-shelled critters, I much prefer dry-heat methods like grilling, broiling or roasting. Too much flavor leeches away when wet methods are used, while dry methods concentrate the flavors. The lobster in this presentation was perfectly cooked and firm, not water-logged.
Lobster mushroom is an interesting ingredient as it is neither a lobster (although it’s color is much like a cooked lobster, which is how it got its name) nor a mushroom. It is a fungus that grows parasitically on other mushrooms. But, unless you are a mycologist, this distinction is not important. The lobster colored fungus is prepared and enjoyed just like a mushroom. The cool flavors and crisp texture of the cucumber slices played well here.
The wine served with the lobster was the 2010 Shea Wine Cellars Shea Vineyard Chardonnay from the Willamette Valley, Oregon. I am a reluctant member of the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) Club. Reluctant because the Chardonnay grape is capable of producing utterly outstanding white wines, from clean, crisp Chablis and Champagne to full bodied White Burgundies and fruit-driven California Chardonnay. Unfortunately, Chardonnay is often misused and abused in these regions and everywhere else it is grown. Planted in the wrong micro-climate, picked over (or under) ripe, oaked or acidified to death.
Chardonnay has found a good home in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, as has it’s Burgundian brother, Pinot Noir. It’s a very new wine region so styles are very much still evolving. David Lett started the Eyrie Vineyards in 1965. a blink of an eye ago in winemaking time, planting Pinot Noir another cool-weather loving grapes. The region has developed very nicely since then.
Shea used a gentle hand in crafting this wine. There was a lot of the fruit’s apple, pineapple, and floral aromas and flavors on display. There was some creaminess and vanilla that spoke of some malo-lactate fermentation and time in oak barrels, but the influence was constrained.
Course #6: Wood Grilled Sturgeon with Ham Hocks, Beets, Smoked Dates and Walnuts.
Sturgeon is a firm, meaty and rather fatty fish that takes to many forms of cooking – grilling, roasting, marinating, pan frying and more. Grilling is a great method, and using wood imparts a nice smokiness. A little meat from what I am sure were smoked ham hocks accentuated the smokiness, which the beet julienne added a little texture and sweetness. Smoked dates added a little more sweetness and smokiness and the walnuts were a nice textural contrast.
The wine for this course was – a beer! Firestone Walker “Union Jack” IPA from Paso Robles CA. As with wine, whiskey, and just about everything else used in the culinary world, there has been a boom in artisanal breweries across the USA. Sometimes the creative spirit (pun intended) goes a bit too far into uncharted flavors and aromas but, for the most part, all of this innovation is a great thing.
Alas, I cannot give you a meaningful evaluation of this beer. As you may’ve read in another column, I just don’t like beer. I realize it is beloved by millions, and I have enjoyed a vast array of adult beverages in many countries, but I just don’t do beer. I drank it. It tasted like beer. Moving on.
Next up: Fermented Black Bean Agnolotti with Braised Morels, Snow Peas and Horseradish. Can you say “umami?”
Agnolotti are a variation on the more familiar ravioli. This hails from Piedmont, Italy and is usually stuffed with meat. In this dish, however, the “meatiness” comes from fermented black beans on the outside and morel mushrooms on the outside. The snow peas (and what I think were snow pea shoots) added color and freshness with just a little kick from the horseradish. I have no plans to go vegetarian, but, just in case I ever do, it is good to know dishes like this exist.
A classic wine pairing as chosen for this dish, 2009 Camille Giroud Borgogne from Burgundy, France. The earthiness of Burgundian Pinot Noir is a perfect mash for mushroom and, in this case, fermented bean flavors. This was by no means a knock-your-socks-off Grand Cru Burgundy, but it showed just how well a regional Borgogne could be made. Lots of fruit and clean acidity made it delightful to drink.
The 8th and final savory course was Miso-glazed Québécois Veal Tenderloin with Artichoke, Apricot and Farmer’s Cheese.
Le Québécois is, as the name might suggest a company in Québec that specializes in grain-fed veal. I have already established that I am not a vegetarian, so I have no problem with raising and slaughtering animals for food. However, I do believe the animals should be raised humanely and not pumped full of hormones, antibiotics, etc. Le Québécois follows the highest standards in this regard.
Putting aside philosophical issues of animal husbandry and consumption, the veal tenderloin was meltingly tender and delicious. Miso has many more uses than miso soup, as exemplified in using it as a glaze here, kicking up the umami factor. The crispy artichoke leaves, sweet apricot and creamy cheese all harmonized with the meat, creating nice contrasts in flavor and texture.
The final red wine for the evening takes us to another of France’s great wine areas. The 2008 Phillipe Gimel “Saint Jean Du Barroux,” Ventoux, France. The region of Ventoux is located in the southern part of the Rhone region, which itself is in the southern part of France. All of the usual Rhonish grapes are grown there, and this one is a grenache-syrah blend. It’s a big red – perhaps a bit too big for the veal – but it was full of fruit and entirely ready to dink.
Easing our way to the finish line, we go for a couple of lighter, sweeter dishes. First, Salted Watermelon Salad with Elderflower Granita and micro-arugula.
Simple, cool, refreshing. If you have never sprinkled a little salt on watermelon, give it a try. I’m guessing the elderflower granita was made with some St. Germain liqueur, which is delightful stuff.
Still keeping it light, the final course was Bubblegum Ice Cream, Strawberries, Banana, and Whipped Vanilla.
Can it get any more summery? Ice cream and strawberries? Perfect ending.
Oh, one more wine to wash it all down: NV Alain Renardat-Fâche Rosé, Bugey-Cerdon, France. This is a sparkling wine made in a tiny wine region called Bugey between Lyon and Geneva in southeastern France. Elie Renardat-Fâche, son of Alain, is the 6th generation to produce wine with the family vineyards. It is made from a blend of Gamay and Poulsard, a minor grape, to say the least.
The sparkling wine is produced by what is know as the Méthode Ancestrale. The wine is allowed to ferment about half way, then it is bottled and fermentation continues in the bottle. The result is a relatively light, very fruity wine that is, in fact, perfect with strawberries and surprisingly good with bubblegum ice cream. 🙂
Just to top everything else, a couple of pieces of house made chocolate and toffee.
While it is, on the one hand, always sad (from a customer’s perspective) to see a chef that has done extraordinarily well leave a restaurant, I think we can look forward optimistically. I can’t wait to try Chef Hendrix’s work at Blackbird and, if the rumors are true, we may see a new restaurant created by Chef Posey in the near future.
Blackbird
Address: 619 W Randolph St, Chicago, IL 606614
Phone: (312) 715-0708
Reservations: opentable.com
Dress Code: Business Casual
Price Range: $31 to $50
Lunch: Monday–Friday: 11:30am–2:00pm
Dinner: Sunday–Thursday: 5:00pm–10:00pm, Friday–Saturday: 5:00pm–11:00pm
AMEX, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Chicago, IL 60661
